From Voodoo doll donuts to blue cheese ice cream, nothing is off limits.

You know when you’re so stuffed, verging on food coma, and someone mentions ice cream and miraculously the fullness subsides and you’re able to down a double scoop. That’s food magic, one of many forms of culinary alchemy that strikes wondrously and regularly in Portland, a Northwest town that really wants you to think it’s weird so they can have all the food offerings to themselves. No way, locals. We see through your trickery and descended on P-town for a spellbinding food tour that had us donut-hopping, coffee-sipping, brunch-savoring, street-food sampling, ice cream-licking, cocktail-sipping and even lining up—something we’d never do in Phoenix—across three tasty neighborhoods.